To most Ghanaians, Kantamanto or Tudu are the go-to places for shopping for fast fashion goods. These two places are the hub of second-hand clothing in Ghana and arguably the biggest markets for such goods in West Africa. These markets thrive from dawn to dusk, with the sellers selling their wares with the slogan “Yi no high na hyɛ no low”, which translates to “Buy it for cheap to express your high fashion sense.”
Although thrift clothes are budget-friendly, many do not last long and are often disposed of, harming the environment. Second-hand clothes are everywhere; we call them Foose. It is hard to tell its etymology within our Ghanaian context, but Foose has Latin origins and means “ditch.” Can you now guess why they wear out after only a few uses and, unfortunately, end up in ditches? Foose contributes to environmental degradation and the depletion of our unique cultural heritage as reflected in our clothing. Let us dig deeper.
Although statistics on secondhand clothing imports to the country are not well-documented, some reports suggest that approximately 15 million garments arrive in the country weekly. The market is mainly informal and, as a result, not subject to strict standards. This means that the quality of these garments can only be determined through inspection by the end buyers. Typically, after buyers make their selections, the unsold items become waste that needs to be disposed of.
The disposal of these garments presents significant environmental challenges due to the materials from which they are made. A large portion of these garments is made of synthetic fibers, such as nylon and polyester, which are non-biodegradable. The common waste disposal methods in Ghana exacerbate the issues associated with disposing of garments made from these materials.
At landfill sites, their non-biodegradable nature means they can remain for years, rendering the land unusable. Some of these garments end up in our drains, blocking them and worsening existing drainage problems. Eventually, some of the garments end up on beaches and oceans, significantly contributing to the issue of microplastic pollution in our waters. Furthermore, incinerating synthetic fibers releases harmful gases, leading to air pollution.
The desire for fashion through second-hand clothing often falls short of our intentions. This trend undermines the progress we have made toward achieving Sustainable Development Goals 12, 13, 14, and 15. While we may acquire these items for cheap, the long-term environmental impact is severe, including land degradation, air and water pollution, and posing significant threats to aquatic life.
Clothing is one of the most expressive aspects of culture. The Maasai Shuka print in East Africa, particularly in Kenya, represents a symbol of identity for the Maasai people of East Africa. In Ghana, our traditional garments convey a great deal about us. During the COVID-19 pandemic, the president wore unique prints to deliver weekly updates; the choice of prints conveyed deep messages even before the address.
The Economics of Foose
The economies of various communities in Ghana rely significantly on the production of cloth for traditional attire. Bonwire and Agortime, located in the Ashanti and Volta regions, respectively, are famous for their production of Kente, while Daboya is recognized for its Fugu fabric. These industries provide livelihoods for families and play a crucial role in preserving the Ghanaian clothing culture.
Imported second-hand clothes from the West often reflect Western culture and generally lack diversity in fashion options. Throughout my thrift hunting experiences, I have yet to encounter any Fugu thrifts, nor Kaba-and-Slit styles. The proliferation of second-hand clothes clearly exemplifies waste colonialism. These clothes, which are essentially waste from the West, flood our markets due to the demand for them here. Unfortunately, this influx of imports undermines local clothing manufacturers by offering cheaper, yet often inferior-quality, alternatives.
If we all flock to buy shirts and jeans from thrift markets, how will we pass on the significance of the Zipligu cap’s diverse orientation and meanings to future generations? What about the cultural richness behind the patterns of Kente fabric? We must consider the impact on our local fabric production industries and the livelihoods of those who rely on them. Every cedi spent on second-hand clothing stalls our progress toward achieving Sustainable Development Goals 1, 8, and 12.
In conclusion, we must reflect on our consumer choices and their broader impact. By consciously reducing our reliance on second-hand clothing as our source of fashion, we not only promote a more sustainable fashion industry but also challenge the harmful cycle of waste, waste colonialism, and pollution. Let’s advocate for stricter regulations and support policies that prioritize quality and sustainability. Together, we can pave the way for a cleaner, more ethical future in fashion, where our wardrobes align with our values. It’s time to redefine our relationship with clothing and invest in a world that respects our planet and its resources.